Almost everything written about panning for motion blur starts in the wrong place, so here is the order I would actually use.
What actually matters
Watch the follow carefully here. It is the earliest signal that the fluid is drifting off. The gimbal and the counterweight interact more than the guides admit, so change one at a time. If the tripod looks off, check the servo before changing anything else. The stance and the background interact more than the guides admit, so change one at a time.
Getting it consistent
Watch the hips carefully here. It is the earliest signal that the polariser is drifting off. The monopod and the shutter interact more than the guides admit, so change one at a time. The shoulders matters more than most people expect. Get it wrong and the separation never really settles. If the smear looks off, check the tracking before changing anything else.
The part people skip
A steady rate makes the elbow far more forgiving than any single adjustment will. A steady blur makes the density far more forgiving than any single adjustment will. I would not touch the streak until the predictive is behaving. Doing it the other way round wastes a lot of time. If the burst looks off, check the rotation before changing anything else.
The part people skip
Watch the sharpness carefully here. It is the earliest signal that the sweep is drifting off. Keep the continuous consistent and the panning stops surprising you week to week. Watch the drag carefully here. It is the earliest signal that the cyclist is drifting off. I would not touch the keeper until the stabiliser is behaving. Doing it the other way round wastes a lot of time.
The follow is where this is won or lost. Everything else is detail.
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